236 Hurumzi (formely Emerson and
Green):
236 Hurumzi
If you’re an incurable romantic and
fancy being swept up in the drama and mysticism of an Arabian Nights fantasy,
236 Hurumzi is the place. This beautifully restored guesthouse in the heart of
Stone Town was once the home of the richest men in the Swahili Empire. It’s now
a place to dream of a long-gone era and bask in the opulence it inspired.
Imagine waking to the fragrance of jasmine in a bedroom featuring Zanzibari
antiques, hand-painted glass lamps and windows, oriental rugs, chandeliers and
billowing mosquito nets draped over four-poster beds. Waft over to your balcony
to see the early morning sun light up the rooftops of Stone Town as the muezzin
calls from the mosque’s minaret.
Picture yourself bathing outdoors in an enormous, sunken stone bath
shielded from the world by a lattice-enclosed veranda. Then step out into the
hustle and bustle of Stone Town and spend the day exploring the maze of
alleyways in this ancient town with its open-air markets, old palaces and
intricately carved doorways. HISTORY: Rooms Room descriptions: New Rooms Dining Fast Facts Room facilities: Activities: Services: Children: Cons: Service and plumbing can be
inconsistent. Open: All year round
Make sure you return to 236 Hurumzi before
sunset to climb the stairs to the roof (it’s the second-highest building in
Stone Town) where you’ll find the Tower Top Restaurant. Toss off your shoes at
the door and sit Arabian-style on giant pillows laid upon the Persian-carpeted
floor. Watch the sun dribble gold into the Indian Ocean as robed waiters bring a
five-course meal to your knee-high table. With the rooftops, mosque minarets,
temple towers and church spires below, you really do feel on top of the world!
The house in which
the hotel now stands was thought to have been constructed in the mid 1800s for
an Oman merchant. Tharia Topan, principal financial adviser to Sultan Bargash
and Head of Customs, constructed the front section of the building in the 1870s.
Topan was sometimes called the Bismarck of the Swahili Empire and was dubbed
Sir Tharia Topan by the King of England.
Later on in 1883, when the slave
trade was officially abolished in Zanzibar, many Arabs refused to simply let
their slaves go free since they had bought and paid for them. So the British
Authorities offered to reimburse the Arabs for freeing their slaves. These
transactions took place in the building which is now 236 Hurumzi hotel. The name
of the street, Hurumzi, originated from this. Huru-muuze means “let him free”.
The building was sold to the Roman Catholic Mission in the late 1880s to
house the Archbishop. From 1914 to 1967 it passed through both Ismaili and Arab
hands until it was nationalised by the Revolutionary Government of Zanzibar in
1967. It was then divided among poor Swahili families who rented it from the
Zanzibar Ministry of Housing. It later fell into a pitiful state of repair.
There are 10 rooms in this three-
storey building accessed via a steep stairwell (no lifts here in Zanzibar). Each
one differs in size, layout and special features. The top rooms offer the best
views, but have ceiling fans only. All the downstairs rooms have air
conditioning. Certain rooms (especially Ball Room, East Room and Crystal) are
more spacious than others (such as Kipembe). South Room and North Room boast
open-air stone baths with lattice-enclosed verandas.
Special touches
include fresh flowers, jasmine flowers on your pillow at bedtime and bottled
water. All rooms are en-suite, but don’t expect the luxuries of television,
telephone or mini-bar. Some rooms don’t even have wardrobes.
The Arabic
stone baths are part of the charm of the place. However, the plumbing can be
problematic and the water pressure on the weak side.
Bring earplugs if
you’re a light sleeper as the centre of town can be noisy at night. To many
people this is part and parcel of the thrill of Stone Town.
You’ll notice
a mixture of Persian, Indian and Arab elements. The very spacious rooms are
typical of Arab building, while the woodwork and windows shows Persian and
Indian influences. The lattice windows and stained glass was most probably made
in India and shipped over. The enormous teak wood beams were imported from
Burma.
North
Room: Superb bedroom situated on the top floor with a veranda offering splendid
views over Stone To
wn towards the Indian Ocean. The room is
decorated with beautiful latticework in African hardwood, a large Zanzibari
four-poster bed and antique furniture. The best part is the gorgeous stone
bathtub with a shower set out under the sky on the veranda. Lattice screens and
tropical plants shield you from the rest of the world. Very romantic, especially
with candles on a good starlit night.
South Room: This
air-conditioned bedroom is accessed via a wooden bridge from the top floor
veranda. There is an ornate lattice enclosed veranda which offers double-aspect
views over Stone Town and a slight view of the restaurant. The semi-open stone
bath and shower are particularly romantic on hot nights, when you can bathe
under the stars.
East Room: This is a colourful room with
wrap-around veranda, especially good for early risers. Facing east, you get most
of the early morning sun. It's decorated with cerise and white fabrics,
Persian carpets and dark wood antiques. Beautiful hardwood latticework separates
the veranda which wraps around the room on two sides. From your spacious sitting
area you can enjoy the beautiful view and the cooling breezes.
West Room: Located on the top floor, this attractive room has
an intimate atmosphere and double-aspect views. Hardwood latticework encloses
the room on two sides and the veranda presents a spectacular view of the sun
setting over the Sultan's ceremonial palace and into the Indian Ocean. It is
beautifully decorated with a Zanzibari painted headboard over the four-poster
bed and dark wood antiques. The kidney shaped en-suite stone bath adds to the
atmosphere.
Ballroom: This sumptuous room is set behind
enormous carved doors with thick brass spikes. It offers spacious air-
conditioned comfort with an array of windows along one side and cool tile
floors. Many of the windows have stained glass. There is a large en-suite sunken
stone bath. Ballroom is ideal for families with children as there is plenty of
space for two beds.
Gallery: Located on the second floor
and decorated in grand Zanzibari style, the Gallery is named for the many hand
painted windowpanes in the bathroom. The panes diffuse the sun and show
cheerful images of peacocks, clove trees and other local flora and fauna. Air-
conditioning is a relief on a humid day.
Lavender Room: This air-
conditioned room is decorated in shades of purple. It features an elegant
antique brass bed and its own large stone bathe en suite.
Crystal
Room: This elegant room features ornate chandeliers, large mirrors and
a stone bath in the bedroom. There are two antique beds for families. There is a
balcony from which you can watch life going by on the Stone Town streets.
Crystal also has air conditioning.
Zenana Suite: This
air-conditioned room is situated below Gallery and has high windows facing east
and a balcony looking over the streets below. The bathroom has a large stone
tub. It’s a good choice for families as the lounge can be turned into an extra
bedroom if necessary.
Kipembe Room: Meaning corner in
Swahili, Kipembe is one of the smallest rooms at 236 Hurumzi. Its lack of
grandness also means a reduction of price. There is a bedroom decorated in dark
wood antiques, an anteroom and a bathroom with a shower. Air-conditioning adds
comfort.
236 Hurumzi have built a
couple of new rooms which sound very exciting. Unfortunately we have not yet
personally seen them, so can't comment or provide descriptions. The rooms are
however as follows:
Suite Blue
Suite La Rose
Suite Seyyed
The Keep Suite
Suite Pavilion
Suite Tour
Once we have been
up to have a look at them, we will provide more details.
Dinner at the Tower Top Restaurant (read the
introduction) is extremely popular, so pre-booking is essential. Sundowner
cocktails are served from 17h30. There is one seating for dinner at 19h00. The
set menu for the day is displayed at reception. As long as advance notice is
given, vegetarian and non-seafood eaters can be catered for. A small buffet
breakfast is served in this restaurant in the mornings
A new air-
conditioned restaurant, Kidude, has opened on the ground floor. It serves lunch,
dinner, snacks and cocktails. It’s exquisitely decorated in lavish style and
makes you really appreciate being in exotic Zanzibar. It’s a must – even if just
for a glass of wine.
Location: Centrally situated in the Hurumzi district of Stone
Town, close to Forodhani Gardens, the Palace Museum and the House of Wonders.
The airport is a 10-minute drive away. If you arrive by boat it’s a 10-minute
walk.
General facilities:
• Two restaurants (pre-
booking for Tower Top is essential)
• Gift shop
• Unfortunately, all
access to rooms is via a steep stairwell, so 236 Hurumzi is not suitable for
those in a wheelchair.
• All
the rooms have ceiling fans, while only the first- and second-floor rooms are
fitted with air conditioning
• Large, stone bathtubs (water pressure can be
low though, so plan your bath in advance)
• Mosquito netting over
beds.
• Stone Town’s cafés, markets
and tourist spots are all within walking distance.
• Limited laundry service
• Phone,
fax and Internet at reception only
• Childcare and cots are available if
booked well in advance.
• Six of the
rooms have extra beds and children under six stay for free when sharing with
their parents.
Pros: Can’t beat the atmosphere and
décor.
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